If you thought kissing in public and wife-swapping have nothing Indian about it, you’ll have to do a rethink. For centuries, Dards or Brogpas of Ladakh have been indulging in both without any inhibitions.
The Dard tribe has around 2,500 members in three small villages of Ladakh — Dhahnu, Darchik and Garkun.
Several historians have identified them as the only authentic descendants of the Aryans left in India.
Historians say the original Brogpas were a group of soldiers from Alexander’s army who lost their way while returning to Greece after the war with Porus or simply people from Baltistan in PoK.
They reached Dhahnu and settled there since it is the only fertile valley in Ladakh.
The Dards are completely different from Ladakhis physically, culturally, linguistically and socially, says Norboo, a scholar who has done extensive study on Dards.
Dards find a mention in the Mahabharata and other Hindu scriptures. They have adopted Buddhism but their customs are very similar to those of Hindu Brahmins. Like Hindus, they worship cow and Lha (gods and goddesses).
They offer sacrifices to the gods and are fond of music, wine, jewellery and flowers. Their costumes are adorned with flowers and jewellery.
Both men and women dance together for days at the onset of spring in Ladakh. Dards have been following the solar calendar for centuries.
Based on the movement of the sun in Ladakh, Brogpas celebrate December 22 as their New Year day. Brogpa men and women are very tall and beautiful.
Unlike Ladakhis, they are fair with big, light-coloured eyes, full lips and pointed noses.
"That’s why we consider ourselves superior to others and don’t marry into other communities," declares Tashi, an educated Dard from Garkun village in Kargil.
The tribe tries to preserve its ethnicity through this insularity. Tashi relates an interesting anecdote. "In 1979, two German ladies came all the way to Ladakh in search of Aryan partners.
The then deputy commissioner told us that the ladies wanted to bear Aryan children since Germans also consider themselves superior to other races," says Tashi.
But the women were arrested because the area is close to the Line of Actual Control (LAC) and was out of bounds for foreigners. The Brogpas practise polygamy and polyandry. Pre-marital and extra-marital sex are also acceptable.
"We didn’t know what shame is. But gradually we are learning it because of modern education and giving up our culture, traditions and customs," says Tashi.
The Brogpas have at least two graduates each in the three villages of Ladakh today. "Polyandry has vanished among the tribe, but there are instances of polygamy," adds Tashi who has two wives and 10 children, five from each wife.
The tribe has faced censure from several quarters. The Army and civil administration as well as the urbanites of Leh town have been calling the tribe’s practises uncivilised.
"Till 1970, groups of women and men from the tribe would queue up in lines and kiss each other openly without any consideration for marital partnerships," says Tashi. "But now we do it when there are no outsiders around," he adds.
